First-time guide to St-Martin

Unlike its more populated and glitzy Dutch counterpart, there are no casinos or big nightclubs on St-Martin but that doesn't mean there's any shortage of delightful things to see and do. Le côté Français has beautiful viewpoints, the longest beaches on the whole island and a delicious French-Caribbean fusion food scene. 

In fact, this French enclave’s food offerings contribute heavily to the dual-nation island being called the gastronomic capital of the Caribbean. Savor the flavor and fun with our first-timer's guide to St-Martin.

When should I go to St-Martin?

That all depends on what you want to do and your budget. The island has a pleasant average temperature of 27℃ (80.6℉) and the sea water hovers around 26-28℃ (80-82℉) year-round.

December to April are the most popular months to visit but those looking for good deals who don't mind high humidity should travel from May to August. Hurricane season runs from June through November, and many businesses close for September and October, the rainiest months.

The year’s top events in St-Martin are the colorful carnival in February through to early March, and The Gastronomy Festival in November. 

How much time should I spend in St-Martin? 

Getting a good feel for St-Martin requires two to three days. Your to-do list should at least include lounging on the powdery sands of Orient Bay, restaurant hopping in Grand Case, and wandering around the Marigot market. It’s also fun to join a pool party at La Lotterie Farm and spend a day at Îlet Pinel.

Is it easy to get in and around St-Martin?

You can fly from most major US cities into the Dutch side’s Princess Juliana International Airport, landing over the famous Maho Beach. The French side’s tiny Grand Case-Espérance Airport only serves the islands of Guadeloupe and St Barthélemy.

St-Martin’s capital Marigot is a fairly popular cruise ship port, though smaller in capacity than Philipsburg on the Dutch side. Marigot also has regular boats to Anguilla and St Barthélemy. 

Bus connections within St-Martin are quite unpredictable, so renting a car is recommended. Rental prices range from €40-60 per day in the high season and the roads are generally in good condition. From the Dutch side, it’s around a 20-minute car ride over to Marigot. There’s no border – just a white obelisk commemorating the 1648 treaty that divided the island into two.

Top things to do in St-Martin 

Spend a day at Orient Bay 

While St-Martin has several gorgeous beaches, you absolutely can't miss the blindingly white sands and turquoise waters of Baie Orientale, aka Orient Bay. The 1.3-mile-long beach is the second longest in all of SXM – the longest is the 1.5-mile Baie Longue (Long Bay), also on the French side. 

Orient Bay is dotted with trendy open-air beach bars and their sun loungers. Check out the Peruvian-influenced driftwood-themed Kkô Beach Bar & Restaurant and Kontiki Beach, where DJs often play on weekends. 

Topless sunbathing is allowed everywhere but Orient Bay’s Southern end is reserved for being fully au naturel. 

Access to the beach is via the pastel-colored gated community of Parc de la Baie Orientale (Orient Bay Park). This maze-like neighborhood has a little town square called La Place du Village that’s perfect for dinner with eight restaurants on site. 

Wander around the colorful town of Marigot

Start your tour of the French side’s capital by taking a stroll along the town’s main street, Rue de la Republic, where you will see 19th-century houses with stone foundations. Then walk to the waterfront’s popular open-air market where you can buy clothing, spices, rum and souvenirs from Monday to Saturday.

Look for rainbow-colored stairs nearby to hike up to the ruins of Fort Louis, built in 1789. While the steep 10-minute climb takes your breath away, the 360-degree island views are well worth the effort. 

Afterward, head to the cozy wood-walled artisanal bakery Chez Fernand for a tuna baguette. Another yummy lunch option is the traditional French bistro O Plongeoir in the Marina Fort Louis. 

In the afternoon, drive over to Loterie Farm. This rainforest retreat is just 10 minutes away from Marigot and has a lagoon-style spring water pool that costs €25 to access. House music plays in the background as guests sip champagne on the sun beds among the greenery. 

On site is a restaurant, ziplining tracks, a kids’ adventure park and hiking trails (the hike to SXM’s highest hill, Pic Paradis, takes an hour). Party vibes run highest on the last Saturday of each month at Loterie Farm’s adults-only Jungle Pool Party. 

Spend a day on Îlet Pinel

A speed boat whisks passengers across the turquoise bay to this protected marine reserve islet in just five minutes. A white sand beach with swaying palm trees and gin-clear water greets visitors as striped-tailed green iguanas scurry off into the bushes.  

There are two restaurants on Pinel Island: Le Karibuni with gourmet seafood dishes and the more casual Yellow Beach serving thin crust pizzas. Both restaurants sell lobsters fresh out of a seawater cage.  

Yellow Beach is open year-round, while Le Karibuni is closed from July to mid-October. Both feature thatched roof wood gazebos where guests dine on wooden tables. Reservations are recommended. The restaurants rent out cushioned beach chairs and parasols. 

You can take a short hike to the grassy island’s highest point to see Pinel’s two other beaches (rocky but with great snorkeling) and the nearby islands of Anguilla and St Barths, as well as the nature reserve island of Tintamarre.

The cash-only boat (€10) to Pinel Island runs daily from French Cul de Sac every 30 minutes from 10am to 5pm. You can also rent a kayak from Caribbean Paddling and cross the bay in about 20 minutes. 

Dine in Grand Case

The former fishing town of Grand Case is basically a one-street beach town but what a street that is - it features tens of restaurants ranging from French Caribbean fine dining to cheap and cheerful lolos (street stands with grilled delights). 

The latter are traditional Caribbean barbecue joints specializing in smoked ribs, grilled lobster and Johnny Cakes. Cynthia’s Talk of the Town and Sky Is The Limit gather the crowds. For lighter fare, try the colorful acai and poke bowls of nearby MOOD SXM.

Grand Case has been dubbed the Gourmet Capital of SXM and for a good reason. Le Pressoir, Bistrot Caraibe and La Villa are only some of the must-visit high-end restaurants along Restaurant Row. 

After eating make sure to cool down with a swim at the town’s long narrow beach. Better yet, make a lunch reservation at Balalou, a floating solar-powered restaurant where you can eat pizza and bokits (stuffed Johnny Cakes) on U-shaped pontoons. 

Those coming to Grand Case for dinner will enjoy the lively nighttime atmosphere on the boulevard and the occasional live music of Calmos Cafe and Le Temps des Cerises. 

Local boutique hotels like L’Esplanade and Grand Case Beach Club are ideal places to stay for those wanting to sample area restaurants but not drive after having one Ti’ Punch too many. L’Esplanade even offers a free restaurant shuttle.

My favorite thing to do in St-Martin 

As a travel writer, I have reviewed hotels all over SXM, and have enjoyed seeing the contrast between what the Dutch and the French sides have to offer. While Sint Maarten has several big mid-range resorts, St-Martin is all about cute boutique operations. I really appreciate the versatility of the French side’s hotels. 

There is the itzy-bitzy 12-room Le Petit Hotel with blue Mediterranean tiling and the ultra-luxurious Greek-village lookalike La Samanna, a Belmond Hotel.

The art-and sculpture-filled Hommage Hotel & Residences features a 200-meter brightly painted wall mural. La Playa Orient Bay has its chill feet-in-sand beach restaurant, and the romantic Domaine Anse Marcel Beach Resort appeals to couples.

I definitely recommend giving this slice of tropical France a try and reveling in its serenity. Plus you can still easily drive over to Maho Beach to watch the planes land!

How much money do I need for St-Martin? 

St-Martin is quite an average Caribbean vacation island in terms of prices. When comparing St-Martin with Sint Maarten, the French side is a bit more expensive for accommodation but slightly cheaper for food. Tipping is not mandatory, but most patrons round up their bill.

Credit cards and Apple Pay are generally well accepted (though not in taxis) but some small businesses – like the lolos – may charge a fee when paying by card. It's good to carry some cash. Euros and dollars are often used interchangeably.

• Hotel room for two: €150-500 

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): €80-500

• Bus ticket: €2 

• Coffee: €3-4 

• Tuna baguette: €5-6 

• Lunch at a lolo: €15-25

• Fixed-price 3-course dinner: €55-180 

• Beer at a bar: €5-8 

• Car rental per day: €35-70

• Sun lounger rental: €15-30 

• Taxi from Maho Beach to Marigot: €25 

Frequently asked questions

Can I get by with English in St-Martin?

It is helpful to know at least some basic pleasantries in French and to keep a translation app handy. However, English is quite widely spoken.

Will my electric appliances work?

St-Martin has European round-prong electric plugs. Bring an adapter and also a converter if your appliances are not designed for 220V (most phone chargers are dual-voltage).