Wedged in a box canyon in southwest Colorado, Telluride is one of the most beautiful towns in the West. Deb Snelson/Getty Images
Tucked into a box canyon in the San Juan mountains of Colorado, Telluride, is an idyllic ski-resort town that might be one of the most naturally beautiful places in the USA.
Telluride has more to offer visitors than high-octane runs and dramatic views, though: it’s a year-round destination for outdoor recreation, with an impressive restaurant scene and interesting events throughout the year. (Mushroom Festival, anyone?)
Telluride rewards visitors who make the long journey with unbeatable outdoor experiences, Wild West vibes and 360 degrees of dramatic mountain views. Here’s what to you need to know as you plan your first trip to Telluride.
When should I go to Telluride?
It depends on the kind of experience you’re after. If that’s Colorado’s superb ski slopes, head to Telluride in winter for terrain that rivals that of bigger-name resorts. Just keep in mind that winter is generally the busiest and most expensive time of the year to be in town.
Summer is also becoming a popular season for travel to Telluride, with the promise of sunny weather and temperatures that hover around 23°C (75°F). It’s the perfect weather for activities like hiking, paddleboarding, fly fishing, mountain biking, rock climbing and more.
The best month for a first-time visit? October, when the aspen leaves on the hillsides turn a brilliant gold, the weather stays mild and the high-season crowds (and prices) ease. If you head to town from mid-October through mid-November or April through May, you’ll find (relatively) great value on accommodation and food. Just keep in mind that many businesses are closed for an off-season break during these times, and the weather can be unpleasant. In the spring especially, you’ll likely have cold wind, rain and mud to contend with.
How much time should I spend in Telluride?
Because it takes a lot of time and effort to get to Telluride (more on that below), you will want to stay at least three or four days once you’re there. That’s enough time to see the town, fit some outdoor adventure in and recover before you make the trek back to civilization again.
If you have a week or more to spend in Telluride…lucky you. Plan your trip around a festival and then stay a few extra days to explore the canyon or use that time for scenic drives to nearby mountain towns like Ouray and Silverton.
Is it easy to get to and around Telluride?
Telluride is not easy to get to – the one downside to such an appealing place. The old mining town lies in a narrow box canyon, surrounded on three sides by mountains that tower over 13,000ft (3962m), with effectively only one road in and out. A small airport on the outskirts of town has just a few flights there each day, all on small planes that take a bumpy journey over the San Juan mountain range before swinging in to land on a short runway. If turbulence makes you nervous, this ride isn’t for you.
The nearest major airport is in Denver, at least a 6-hour drive away. If you have time to spare, consider renting a car in Denver and making the long drive in to enjoy the views; Telluride also makes a great stop on a Colorado road trip. Most locals choose to fly in and out of the small city of Montrose, a 1-hour flight from Denver. From there, you can rent a car or book a seat on the Telluride Express shuttle, which takes about 1½ hours to get to town.
Once you’re in Telluride, you won’t need a car to get around. The town is walkable and bike-friendly, and there’s a free gondola that runs between Telluride and Mountain Village, the ski-resort area in the mountains above town. There’s also a free bus called the Galloping Goose that runs a constant loop throughout downtown, plus shuttles between Telluride and Mountain Village that run more frequently during the off season when the gondola stops running.
Top things to do in Telluride
Soak up the great outdoors
With mile after mile of trails, forests and untouched backcountry accessible directly from town, Telluride offers outdoor enthusiasts enough terrain to stay occupied no matter how long their trip. In the summer, that means hiking (the “easiest” hike is Bridal Veil Falls, but it’s still steep – nearby Hope Lake is a favorite of mine), mountain biking, paddleboarding on alpine lakes and fly fishing for trout on the impossibly blue San Miguel river.
More-accessible activities include adaptive skiing and snowboarding: the Telluride Adaptive Sports Program offers several different apparatuses to help people of different physical abilities enjoy the slopes as well as guided experiences for blind skiers. Visitors can also take jeep tours on mountain roads, and ride on the wheelchair-accessible gondola that runs between Telluride and Mountain Village.
Take a scenic drive
While any road in the Telluride area could be considered a “scenic route,” there are a few in particular worth exploring during your time in town. Though some are only open during the height of summer, others are accessible pretty much year-round.
Set out on Last Dollar Rd that cuts between Telluride and Dallas Divide just outside of Ridgway; check out the silver mining town of Rico on the way to Mesa Verde National Park; or drive the Million Dollar Hwy between Ouray and Silverton, which is accessible directly from Telluride via the harrowing Imogene Pass. (Don’t attempt Imogene without a jeep or similar vehicle – and confidence in your driving skills.)
Play in the snow
The ski season in Telluride runs from November to March, during which time the town sees about 200–300 inches of fresh powder and plenty of bluebird days. Telluride Ski Resort offers over 2000 acres of ski and snowboard terrain, with a mix of beginner-friendly slopes, intermediate ski runs, and steep bump runs or hike-to terrain for advanced or expert skiers. There are lifts both in Telluride and Mountain Village, with lines usually shorter for the lifts leaving directly from town.
Other cold-weather activities in Telluride include snowshoeing, cross-country skiing along the Valley Floor (the 3 miles of designated open space outside of town), snowmobiling in the backcountry and even horse-drawn sleigh rides. For a secondhand thrill, head to neighboring Ouray County to watch skijoring, an event in which skiers are pulled through a race course by horses.
Attend a festival
Telluride hosts 20 different festivals each year at both indoor and outdoor venues throughout town and Mountain Village. That includes music events like Blues and Brews and Jazz Festival; the Telluride Film Festival, when celebrity sightings are guaranteed; the never-ending party that is Telluride Gay Ski Week; Telluride Balloon Festival, when hot-air balloons dot the sky above the Valley Floor; and even the wacky Mushroom Festival, complete with a parade where attendees dress up like mushrooms and dance in the streets.
If you’re planning your visit to align with festival dates, keep in mind that accommodation prices will be higher than usual and everything from festival tickets to restaurant reservations will sell out quickly.
My favorite thing to do in Telluride
Some of my best memories from living in Telluride involve taking a picnic to the Last Dollar Road lookout. A few miles past the Telluride Regional Airport, there’s a spot where the dirt road becomes a 4x4-only track that zigzags through the mountains toward the Dallas Divide pass just before the town of Ridgway.
Where these branches of Last Dollar Road meet, there’s a small, quiet parking area that offers some of the best views in the whole area – and that’s saying something. I used to love to bring snacks and set up some camping chairs here so I could sit and watch the light and shadows dance on the mountains. This is one of the best locations to catch the fall foliage and admire Mt Wilson, the peak that graces Coors beer cans.
How much money do I need for Telluride?
Although more budget-friendly than other high-end ski resort towns like Vail or Aspen, Telluride is not a cheap destination. If you’re on a tight budget, you may want to stay outside of town in places like Norwood, Dolores or Cortez and come into Telluride as a day trip. When planning warm-weather travel far in advance, you can also book a campsite before they sell out to save money on accommodation. To avoid the high prices of Telluride’s few grocery stores, go shopping in Montrose on your way to town.
Keep in mind that prices in Telluride fluctuate depending on the season. Hotel rates in the middle of ski season or when there’s a festival taking place are significantly higher than during off season.
Motel room: $120 a night during off season; $180 a night during high season
4-star hotel room: $200+ a night during off season; $250+ a night during high season
Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): $175+ a night for a basic condo during high season; $100+ a night during off season
Public transport ticket: Free! Both the Galloping Goose bus that runs a constant loop through town and the gondola between Telluride and Mountain Village are gratis.
Coffee: $3.50
Sandwich: $20
Dinner for two: $100
Beer/pint at the bar: $8
Daily lift ticket: $245 (with discounts for longer durations)
Outdoor gear rental: $65 per day for skis in the winter and paddleboards in the summer
More tips for enjoying Telluride
Be prepared for the altitude
Telluride sits at 8750ft (2667m) and Mountain Village 9512ft (2900m), which may be a shock to your system, especially if you’re coming from sea level. Remember that it may take a few days to acclimate and that alcohol may impair you faster. Consider asking your primary-care physician for advice if you’re concerned about the altitude, and make sure to drink lots of water throughout your stay. Oxygen is available in town if needed.
Understand Telluride vs Mountain Village vs Lawson Hill
Telluride is really a few small towns in one. There’s the actual town of Telluride in the box canyon, Mountain Village up by the ski resort and Lawson Hill at the beginning of the Valley Floor a few miles from town. Downtown Telluride is the original mining town founded in 1878, while Mountain Village was established in 1983. Both offer hotels, restaurants and shops. Lawson Hill is a residential neighborhood that’s also home to the Telluride Brewing Company and tap room.
When you’re booking accommodation and planning your trip, it helps to understand that these are three distinct places, especially if you’re not planning on renting a car. Though public transportation runs between Telluride, Lawson Hill and Mountain Village, they’re not within comfortable walking distance of each other.
Be a conscious visitor
In order to preserve Telluride’s natural beauty for future generations, follow the locals’ lead and take care of the environment as you explore. Skip the geotag when you post pictures of your outdoor adventures (the town has dealt with erosion in natural areas because of their popularity on social media), follow posted rules like not bringing pets on the river trail through the Valley Floor, and observe the principles of “pack it in, pack it out” and “leave no trace.”
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