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Busy street corner in old town Hanoi, Vietnam. Lots of people are commuting on motorbikes or cars. The street is lined by stores and appartment buildings.
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Busy street corner in old town Hanoi, Vietnam. Lots of people are commuting on motorbikes or cars. The street is lined by stores and apartment buildings.

Hanoi

Hanoi carefully straddles past, present and future. This beautiful urban mess is a patchwork of enormous neighborhoods, each with its own disposition, from the rousing Old Quarter to the regal French Quarter; monumental Ba Dinh to charming Truc Bach. What’s more, the street food, coffee shop and bia hoi (fresh beer) scenes are all unmatched. Get ready to dive deep into Hanoi.

Hanoi

Day 1

Explore Hanoi's ancient history

Get to know Vietnam's more than 1,000-year-old capital with a handful of ancient temples and a history museum with time to relax with an egg coffee and other Hanoian specialties.

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  • Legend claims that, in the mid-15th century, heaven sent Emperor Le Loi a magical sword, which he used to drive the Chinese from Vietnam. After the war a giant golden turtle grabbed the sword and disappeared into the depths of this lake to restore the sword to its divine owners, inspiring the name Ho Hoan Kiem (Lake of the Restored Sword).

    The area is best from Friday to Sunday: nearby traffic is banned between 7 pm and midnight and a public-square, funfair vibe takes over. Explore the area at any time, though sunrise and sunset are particularly romantic for lake-shore wanderers and photographers. Every morning at around 6 am local residents practise t’ai chi on the shore. The ramshackle Thap Rua, on an islet near the southern end, is often used as an emblem of Hanoi.

    A number of elegant pagoda-like stone gateways can be found around the lake, inscribed with chu nho Chinese characters, including Hoa Phong Pagoda (Thap Hoa Phong) near the southeast of the lake shore. You may often bump into small groups of Hanoi university and high-school students out interviewing foreigners to practice their English. They are invariably polite, often very interesting to talk to and provide an opportunity to interact with local youngsters, while they get the chance to improve their language skills (which the Vietnamese are highly ambitious about)! 

  • Built between 1925 and 1932, this architecturally impressive museum was formerly home to the École Française d’Extrême-Orient. Its architect, Ernest Hebrard, was among the first in Vietnam to incorporate a blend of Chinese and French design elements. Exhibit highlights include bronzes from the Dong Son culture (3rd century BCE to 3rd century CE), Hindu statuary from the Khmer and Champa kingdoms, jewelry from imperial Vietnam, and displays relating to the French occupation and the Communist Party. The audio guide is free.

    • 39 P Nguyen Huu Huan

    The originator of Hanoi's egg coffee is still running in this time-worn family establishment, serving the best in town since 1946 at egg-sellent prices… Head upstairs and order up a superb regular egg coffee, or varieties of egg coffee with chocolate, cinnamon, coke, rum or beer. Other non-egg coffees and teas are available. You get a plastic tab and pay downstairs.

    • cnr P Hang Buom & P Hang Giay

    In the heart of the Old Quarter, the small and colorful Bach Ma Temple (literally ‘White Horse Temple’) can claim to be the oldest temple in Hanoi, though much of the current structure dates from the 18th century and a shrine to Confucius was added in 1839. It was originally built by Emperor Ly Thai To in the 11th century to honor a white horse that guided him to this site where he chose to construct his city walls. Pass through the wonderful old wooden doors of the pagoda to see a statue of the legendary white horse flanked by two mythical stalks, symbolizing longevity, as well as a beautiful, red-lacquered funeral palanquin.

  • A rare example of well-preserved traditional Vietnamese architecture, the Temple of Literature (Van Mieu) honors Vietnam’s finest scholars. Founded in 1070 by Emperor Le Thanh Tong, the attractive complex is dedicated to the Qufu-born philosopher Confucius (Khong Tu) and was the site of Vietnam’s first university, Quoc Tu Giam (1076). The altars are popular with students praying for good grades, while the halls, ponds and gardens of the five courtyards make picturesque backdrops for graduation photos. It is depicted on the 100,000d note. Originally, university admission was exclusively for those born of noble families, but after 1442 it became more egalitarian. Gifted students from all over the nation headed to Hanoi to study the principles of Confucianism, literature and poetry. In 1484 Emperor Le Thanh Tong ordered that stelae be erected to record the names, places of birth and achievements of exceptional scholars: 82 of 116 stelae remain standing, mostly atop turtle statues. Paths lead from the imposing tiered gateway on P Quoc Tu Giam through formal gardens to the Khue Van Pavilion, constructed in 1802.

  • Added to Unesco’s World Heritage List in 2010, Hanoi’s Imperial Citadel was the hub of Vietnamese military power for over 1000 years. Ongoing archaeological digs continue on site, revealing remains of ancient palaces, grandiose pavilions and imperial gates. The magnificent main gate (Doan Mon) is named after one of the gates of the Forbidden City in Beijing. Further back is the imposing and colonnaded French Caserne de la Compagnie d’Ouvriers. At the rear is the Princess Pagoda (Hau Lau), which probably housed imperial concubines. There are also fascinating military command bunkers from the American War – complete with maps and 1960s communications equipment – used by the legendary Vietnamese general Vo Nguyen Giap. At the citadel’s southern edge is the hexagonal flag tower, another Hanoi landmark and emblem.

    • 34 P Hang Than

    Best bun cha in Vietnam? Many say 34 is up there. No presidents have eaten at the plastic tables, but you get perfectly moist chargrilled pork, zesty fresh herbs and delicious broth to dip everything in. The nem (seafood spring rolls) are great too. Aim for noon for patties straight off the coals.

    • 89 P Ma May

    Retro furniture and art are mixed and matched in this bohemian multilevel labyrinth tucked away from Ma May’s tourist bustle. Pop in for a coffee and banana bread in a quiet section, or return after dark to one of Hanoi’s best little bars. 

Day 2

Influences on Vietnam, past and present

Explore the very fabric of Vietnam, from the culture of all 54 ethnic groups to traditional architecture and French fusion flavors.

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  • The Vietnam Museum of Ethnology, one of Vietnam’s standout museums, is just outside of Ba Dinh in the west of the city. The museum houses an extraordinary collection relating to Vietnam’s 54 officially recognized ethnic groups, including well-presented tribal art, artifacts and everyday objects gathered from across the nation. The interiors, spread over two floors, are organized by geography and ethnicity, making it easier to get to grips with the clothing, attire, architecture and customs of the different groups. Virtually every corner of the museum is of interest, but the women’s clothing is notably striking and the elaborate funeral customs are fascinating. A highlight of the museum is the garden, which deserves just as much time and attention as the indoor displays. More than a handful of ethnic groups from across Vietnam were invited to build structures that best represent their traditional architecture, so expect houses, communal halls and graves poking out from behind the trees.

  • One of the Old Quarter’s best-restored properties, this traditional merchants’ house is sparsely but beautifully decorated, with rooms filled with fine furniture set around two courtyards. Note the high steps between rooms, a traditional design incorporated to stop the flow of bad energy around the property. There are crafts and trinkets for sale here, including silver jewelry, basketwork and Vietnamese tea sets, and there’s sometimes a calligrapher or another craftsperson at work too.

    • 156 Tua Hoa, Nghi Tam

    Sumptuous, healthy and organic (when possible) wholefoods are presented with aplomb in one of Hanoi's loveliest settings, an expansive, airy villa overlooking West Lake.

  • Two kilometers south of Hoan Kiem Lake, this temple was founded in 1142 and dedicated to the Trung sisters, who are said to have drowned themselves rather than surrender in the wake of their defeat at the hands of the Chinese. There is an annual festival held here in January or early February with a colorful procession and cultural activities like wrestling and human-chess displays. The temple overlooks a circular lake ringed by bia hoi (fresh beer) restaurants and tra da (iced tea) stalls and makes for an interesting snapshot of local life in the French Quarter. 

    • 10 Nam Ngu

    This stylish bistro is set in a restored, whitewashed French villa arrayed around a breezy central courtyard. French cuisine underpins the menu – La Badiane translates as ‘star anise’ – but Asian and Mediterranean flavors also feature. Menu highlights include sea-bass tagliatelle with smoked paprika and prawn bisque with wasabi tomato bruschetta. Two-/three-course lunches are on the menu along with an evening degustation.

    • 1a P Trang Tien

    This atmospheric venue tucked behind the Opera House is the place in Hanoi to catch live jazz. There’s a full bar, a food menu and high-quality gigs featuring father-and-son team Minh and Dac, plus other local and international jazz acts. There's no cover charge, so the small, smoky venue fills quickly – get there early. The club is owned by the local saxophonist legend Quyen Van Minh. Check the website for listings.

Day 3

An artsy day by the lake

Spend the day around scenic Hoan Kiem Lake learning about Vietnamese history and culture with time for a cooking class and some live music.

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    • cnr P Hoa Lo & P Hai Ba Trung

    This thought-provoking site is all that remains of the former Hoa Lo Prison, ironically nicknamed the ‘Hanoi Hilton’ by US POWs during the American War. Most exhibits relate to the prison’s use up to the mid-1950s, focusing on the Vietnamese struggle for independence from France. A gruesome relic is the ominous French guillotine, used to behead Vietnamese revolutionaries. There are also propagandistic displays focusing on the American pilots who were incarcerated at Hoa Lo during the American War. These pilots include the late Senator John McCain (the Republican nominee for the US presidency in 2008). McCain’s flight suit is displayed, along with a photograph of locals rescuing him from Truc Bach Lake after being shot down in 1967. The vast prison complex was built by the French in 1896. Originally intended to house around 450 inmates, records indicate that by the 1930s there were close to 2000. Hoa Lo was never a very successful prison, and hundreds escaped its walls over the years – many squeezing out through sewer grates.

    • 43-51 P Van Mieu

    A not-for-profit organization near the Temple of Literature that sells quality tribal handicrafts, textiles and weavings at fair-trade prices. The bags are quite beautiful and richly colored – explore them over two floors. There's another branch a little further down the road. 

  • On three levels with retro furniture, the Hanoi Social Club is an artist hub and the city's most cosmopolitan cafe. Dishes include potato fritters with chorizo for breakfast, and pasta, burgers and wraps for lunch or dinner. Vegetarian options feature a tasty mango curry, and the quiet laneway location is a good spot for an egg coffee, beer or wine. The Hanoi Social Club also hosts regular gigs and events. Check its Facebook page for what's on.

  • This excellent museum (Bao Tang Phu Nu Viet Nam) showcases the roles of women in Vietnamese society, culture and history. Exhibits cover everything from marriage customs to childbirth, but it’s the memories of the wartime contribution by individual women that are most poignant. There is a stunning collection of wartime propaganda posters, as well as clothing, rural crafts and fabric motifs from Vietnam’s ethnic minority groups. Check the website for event details and special exhibitions.

  • Blue Butterfly floats above its weight with the lamp-lit dark-wood stylings of a heritage house and a good-value menu of Vietnamese classics, from bun cha (barbecued pork) to duck with tamarind sauce. Staff offer knowledgeable suggestions and demonstrate how to tackle dishes such as nem lui (pork grilled on lemongrass skewers, wrapped in rice paper and dipped in peanut sauce). 

    • 24b P Tong Dan

    Attracting a well-dressed clientele, Nguyen Qui Duc's unofficial clubhouse for the underground art and literary scene is this dark, quirky colonial bar in the French Quarter. Obligatory red accents (seat covers, wrought-iron grille on the doors), reworkings of art-deco furniture and plenty of recycled ironwork feature heavily. The highlight of the cool cocktail list is the sweet mojito.

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